Thursday, 14 June 2007
Tuesday, 15 May 2007
Firstly, a work in progress shot of the Roman Blade. The main colours have been blocked in, no shading or lining yet. There is also a vie wof the shield showing the first stage perparation for painting the shield design. The shield has been painted white, with a yellow stripe down the middle. The design will then be painted on in red leaving the white and yellow showing through where required.
Wednesday, 11 April 2007
Friday, 6 April 2007
This is the General's 4Kn element. Fairly straightforward to paint the riders. I drilled up between their legs, and mounted each on a cocktail stick prior to priming them in black. They were then dry-brushed with silver, before the details were added in. Most of the riders have full face masks, except for the guy on the far right of the pic, who has been painted with an open faced helm.
Saturday, 31 March 2007
Wednesday, 28 March 2007
Wednesday, 21 March 2007
The techniques are much the same as for the earlier figs. A black undercoat, and a silver dry brush. The colours blocked in, starting with the flesh and then the tunic. After that came the belts and the frilly skirt thing (the name escapes me - but I know it starts with a p!). The shield painted in white ready for the yellow main colour. Finally detail picked out with thinned black. I didn't wash the flesh with brown, because I wanted the skin tone to be lighter than the native Palmyrans.
Wednesday, 14 March 2007
The army includes an element of 4Ax - Allied Roman troops. I have primed them black and drybrushed in silver, because they are wearing scale armour. I thought I would then have a go at the shield before painting the rest of the figure, just to see if the design I had in mind works. I think it does, but will need a bit of tidying.
Tuesday, 13 March 2007
Final pics of the latest bowman to be painted. The shots show the final stages, where belts,scabbard, bow and flesh are added. Thinned down black paint was then used to add depth to the folds in the clothing, and to add definition to the edges of belts and things. Finally a thin dark brown wash was added to the flesh to enhance the shading, and also to darken the skin to a more realistic tone.
2. Basic colours are blocked in. I chose a maroon colour for the tunic for a number of reasons, but mainly a) I like it! and b) I am led to believe that the Palrymans favoured it too! The red hat is to add a bit of colour, and also because I want the red to become an accent colour running through the whole army. White trousers to stop the figure looking too dull.
3. The plan here is to paint a green stripe around the hem and cuffs of the tunic. If the green was painted directly over the maroon, it would come out a very muddy colour, so I have put a white band on first as a base for the green.
4. The green has been added, and when dry I used the original maroon to go over the edges and tidy up the stripe.
2. The next stage was to dry brush the figure in white. It may seem a bit of a longwinded way to go about things, but I find that by doing it this way, the detail is picked out nicely ready for painting.
3. The next job was to block in the main colours, in this case an off white for the tunic to represent undyed linen and red trousers for contrast. I am quite careful to try and leave the black undercoat showing between areas of colour, to save lining it in later. Then I picked out the more detailed parts, such as belts, etc. The flesh came next, again taking care to leave the black showing through in the recesses like the eye sockets, between the fingers, the mouth and under the nose.
4. Once everything had been given its colour, I then took a thinned down wash of dark brown to the face and hands. This has the effect of slightly darkening the skin tone, and also softening the shading in the recesses. Once that was dry I used the same colour slightly less thinned down than for the skin and touched in the folds on the clothing, and also lined in between the hands and the tunic sleeves. Last job was for a thin line of watered down black to add shadow to the helmet, where the crest attaches, and at the join between the helmet and the cheek pieces.
Monday, 12 March 2007
2. Once the undercoat was dry, I then drybrushed all the horses with silver, using a largish brush. I have a brush I reserve purely for drybrushing, because it is a technique which will destroy a brush in a very short space of time, rendering it no good for anything else!
3. The next stage was to paint in the exposed horse flesh - not forgetting the ears! In the past I have happily painted an entire army of cataphracts, only realising at the end that I forgot the ears! Thus my own Parthian army consists of horses with silver ears!! At this stage I also painted in the reins and the lower edge of the caprison in white. I did the same for the chin strap behind the horse's face armour. The reason for this is that I planned to paint these red, and the pigment in red acrylic paints is not especially strong, so doesn't show up well against a dark background.
4. I then painted a bright red band along the lower edge of the caprison. Following that the reins and chin strap were painted maroon. I have no idea if this is an authentic colour, but it shows up a lot better than a standard mid-brown leather colour (which I suspect is more historically accurate). I also painted the saddle cloth white. This was for the same reason as for the reins etc - the cloth will be red, I wanted a white base so that it would show up well.
5. The saddle cloth was then painted using the same red as for the base of the horse armour, leaving two stripes where the white base was showing through, for decoration.
6. The final stage was to paint the horse's tail black, and with a little thinned down black paint to trace a line around places like the edge of the saddle cloth, the face armour, and other areas to add definition and detail.
...and there you have it, one complete Palmyran Cataphract horse. The rest will be done all together one stage at a time. If I am going to be painting a quantity of the same figure, I always paint one completely from start to finish first. This lets me get used to the figure and "suss out" the nooks an crannies etc. I find this makes the painting of the rest quicker and easier because I know what to expect.